Diary No.6: NOT ALL THAT SHINES IS GOLD - A formulator's view

Posted by Rebeka Eržen on

In recent weeks, I have been bombarded with advertisements for the purchase of cosmetic products, especially face creams, on social media several times. It is clear to me that due to the algorithms of my browsing on the Internet, they predict what I do and send me targeted advertisements. I have most often been annoyed by the advertisements, because the prices of the products are extremely high. And what is a high price for a cosmetic product to me? Anything over €50.00. Of course, each of us has different criteria for what is a high price for them. My assessment of the price, of course, stems from the fact that I am a formulator of cosmetic products and that I have an overview of the entire cost: from basic raw materials, packaging, all the way to marketing costs. I decided to research cosmetic products on their websites in order to find reasons that would be valid for such high prices.

Reason No. 1: CAREFULLY SELECTED PACKAGING

We buy cosmetics (even natural ones!) first with our eyes. Imagine yourself in a store, standing in front of a shelf with face creams and choosing a NEW cream for yourself. First, stand in the middle of the shelf, where you start. You reach for the box that you like the most from the middle – the one that speaks to you the most with its packaging story. Then you weigh it, turn it over, read it, assess the quality of the packaging. You don't open the box, because it's not allowed to be opened. You return the first box and repeat the process a little to the right and a little to the left of the middle of the shelf. In the end, you choose the cream that you think will be really good – because if you like the packaging, then the contents must be great too. So, you bought the product without even getting to the cream itself (which is why you bought the product in the first place) in the store. That's why formulators and all other sellers of cosmetic products (including natural ones) are far too concerned with the appearance of the product – because we are simply aware of its importance. And really good (read: eye-catching) packaging costs money.

Reason #2: BRAND NAME

Here I will choose the American market of conventional and natural cosmetics as an example. If the owner of the trademark is, for example, a doctor, you will not find a product on her website that costs less than $200. After all, she herself, with her education, is a guarantee of the product's excellence. She certainly does not produce cosmetic products herself, and it is also rare for her to participate in the development of the product. Usually, brand owners just say which of the active ingredients they would like to have in their products (given their professionalism, we can probably trust them here), and a hired company develops the product. A professional title is great advertising. For my next brand, I will decide that the name of my brand will be Dr. Nataschka.

Reason No. 3: MANUFACTURER NAME

If you imagine yourself in a store, in front of a shelf with face creams, you will first check out the products of the big names of manufacturers that you already know. Because these names also guarantee quality. The products of these manufacturers are also ranked by price; cosmetic products of the higher price range are separated from cheaper products. Do we really know the reason for this division of products into separate shelves? Apart from the price? And the much richer packaging? Let me give you some information for your consideration that many more expensive products are actually created from already established cheaper products that have been proven to be good - manufacturers buy the copyright for the product from the first owners, preserve the product base, add a few additional, more modern and popular active ingredients to it and voilà: in front of you is a new, more successful product in fabulous packaging, used by a famous model. If this means something to you personally, and if you want it and can afford it financially, of course, no big deal.

Reason #4: EFFECTIVE INGREDIENTS

If you've ever treated yourself to an expensive cosmetic product, you've surely been impressed by the scent and the wonderfully velvety texture when you look at the packaging. You've experienced the elegance of their formula. One of the keys to this elegance are silicones. In a cosmetic product, they are most often used to create a beautiful velvety texture. Experts still don't fully agree on whether silicones are bad or not. Their safety depends on many factors, first of all, on which components the silicones are combined with. The amount of silicones in the product is also of great importance. Fortunately, there are natural substitutes for silicones (certain oils, keratin, silk proteins, amino acids, etc.) - for all of us who love natural cosmetics and simply don't want artificial silicones on our skin.

I still have to touch on the smell. This is also a completely separate chapter in cosmetics, because the smell, next to the good appearance of the product, is the second most important factor in choosing a product. When we buy and open a product, we first put it under our nose. If it doesn't smell, your purchase has failed! If only we knew how much of the development of a new product is devoted to the smell! It can't be done without it. And the smell is really something personal; what smells strong to one person, is the opposite, even stinks to another. So how do you hit the right note? Large and well-known cosmetics manufacturers use artificial fragrant compounds for which they have conducted liking studies. Which smell do women between the ages of 20 and 30 prefer? And which do men after 40 prefer? The only thing that matters is how well the fragrant product will sell in the target group.

CONCLUSION

In this post, which was created as a result of my browsing of websites, I also added my personal comments, which are part of my thinking every time I develop a new product: first I focus on the content (choosing the best ingredients), only then the appearance and smell. And if I read studies on what sells best, my order should be different: first the appearance, then the smell and finally the ingredients. But I decided not to go that route. I remain faithful to natural ingredients.

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