How much is there talk about sunscreens today! Why more today than 10 years ago? Because our atmosphere has truly changed: there is more light radiation in our atmosphere than ever before. The radiation that we are most familiar with is UV radiation. However, today scientists are warning about additional radiation that we are increasingly exposed to: infrared (IR) radiation and blue light radiation. I have explained the differences between them below. The latest trends in cosmetics are moving towards products that are supposed to contain the entire protective spectrum of compounds that are supposed to protect us from absolutely everything: from UV radiation, blue and IR radiation, in addition, the products must contain antibacterial and antiviral protection... And there is more to be found. Also due to the current pandemic, movements have already emerged among us that unite people who are extremely worried and above all scared for their health. They want protection for themselves and their loved ones in all forms by all means - and they would prefer to put this into one simple, single product. Imagine a product: CREAM – ALL IN ONE – a cream that promises all possible protection: against viruses (read: Covid!), bacteria, skin cancer... If that were possible, I think this manufacturer would hit the nail on the head.
Realistically: for now, this is not possible. It will probably be soon. Concerns? It depends on which side you are on: are you so afraid for your health that you prefer protection, regardless of its origin, regardless of the naturalness/syntheticity of the product, you would use anything, as long as it is effective - so that you continue to stay healthy and that you do not have to change your lifestyle. Or do you prefer to browse a little for natural things (as much as this is possible in this area!), perhaps not so effective products at first glance, but you prefer a little less exposure to the sun? We are different.
A little more about different protections in cosmetic products.
LIGHT
To recap a bit of physics (I won't go into too much detail, I promise!): light is that part of electromagnetic radiation/waves that a human observer is aware of based on stimulation of the retina. Despite the fact that light is all around us, we cannot see light. We can only see its reflection, its sources. Light is created in many ways and can be the result of the action of electricity, chemical or biochemical reactions.
The most dangerous for our health (skin) is UV (ultraviolet) radiation. It is divided into UV A, UV B and UV C radiation. UV C radiation is the most dangerous (these photons carry the most energy), but they are stopped by the ozone layer on their way to the Earth's surface. That is why our attention is mainly focused on UV B and UV A rays. UV B rays have more energy than UV A rays, as they cause skin burns and are extremely important in the development of skin cancer. While UV A rays are so strong that they ²only² darken our skin, accelerating skin aging and the formation of wrinkles.
What is IR (infrared) radiation: IR radiation is emitted by all heated bodies, which we feel as heat on our skin. We cannot see it with our eyes.
And blue light? The sun is the main source of blue light. Spending time in sunlight is the main source of blue light for humans. In addition to natural sources, we get a significant amount of blue light from modern LED lights, television screens, smartphones, and tablets. Due to their short, high-energy wavelengths, blue light rays flicker more easily than rays of long wavelengths. This flickering creates glare, which reduces visual contrast and affects the sharpness and clarity of vision. Flickering screens are one of the main reasons for the symptoms of dry and tired eyes, headaches, and physical and mental exhaustion.
SPF
The abbreviation comes from the English language. Sun Protection Factor . It gives an assessment of how WELL our skin is protected from the sun's rays. Don't confuse this with the number of minutes (that is, how long!) you can be exposed to the sun. SPF is determined in laboratories. For example: if you have a cream with SPF 30, this means that you can be in the sun 30x longer than you would be without this cream - before the sun burns you.
Regardless of the SPF number, the rule of thumb for good protection is to reapply sunscreen every 2 hours. And the cream should be reapplied immediately after swimming or sweating.
MINERAL VS. CHEMICAL FILTERS
To achieve a protection factor in cosmetic products, we use two types of compounds: mineral filters and/or chemical filters.
Mineral filters are currently trending because they are natural and have minimal impact on the environment. At the same time, they can offer high SPF protection, a broad spectrum of protection, and stability when exposed to light. They include two natural minerals: titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, which are inorganic mineral compounds. They work by reflecting the sun's rays from the skin before they even reach it. However, manufacturers have a very difficult time working with mineral filters, as it is very difficult to create a satisfactory product. These products are not as aesthetic for customers, they do not give such a good feeling on the skin, as they leave white marks on the skin. A few years ago, nano mineral filters began to be used, which solve the problem of white skin after application, but they raise great concerns about the safety of use due to the penetration of nanoparticles through the skin. I do not recommend them.
Chemical filters are organic chemical compounds created in laboratories and are usually included in creams in such a way that they work both on the surface of the skin and in the first layers of the skin: they react with light (absorb UV light) before it damages the skin. They act like a sponge that absorbs UV A and UV B rays. In addition to other ingredients, chemical filters are often combined with antioxidants such as Vitamin A or E, which protect the skin from free radicals. Where is the danger with these filters: chemical filters must be extremely stable in light (so that they do not break down during sunbathing (their function is then impaired or disappears!) and that they do not form new, especially toxic compounds after absorbing light.
The latest sunscreens use a combination of mineral and chemical filters.
The problem with all filters is that even in laboratories it is sometimes impossible to predict what will happen to such a compound in the sun. What new compound will it transform into? How is such a new compound absorbed in the body? What metabolic process does this compound enter? Can this compound accumulate in the body? Is the new compound a potential allergen? These are mostly concerns when using chemical filters; there are fewer of these concerns with mineral filters, as they are very inert (chemically stable) compounds that remain in this form until they leave the body (this does not apply to nanoparticles!).
CONCLUSION
Since sunscreens are extremely demanding cosmetic products, I haven't dared to touch them in my development. That's why I don't have them in my offer yet. When sunbathing, I use good sunscreens (even if I pay a little more for them), which contain a combination of both types of filters, because despite my ²natural thinking², healthy skin is much more important to me. But when my skin reaches a certain level of tan, I remain loyal to my product MY BODY BUTTER (natural body butter), which I use on the beach in the shade, immediately after swimming, and of course in the evening, when I slowly cool my skin to normal temperature and nourish it.
But for the second year, I'm already preparing for the formulating challenge of creating my own, healthy and natural sunscreen product...